A handful of restaurants have come to define the Vancouver foodie scene over the years. You may also recognize several of their celebrity chefs. Top Chef Canada finalist Trevor Bird. Iron Chef Rob Feenie. Chef Hidekazu Tojo, inventor of the California roll. And then, there’s Vikram Vij. Beyond his brief stint on Dragons’ Den, the Indian-born Canadian chef is far better known for his restaurants, most notably the eponymous Vij’s.
Welcome to Vij’s
Back when my parents were still in the restaurant business, Vij’s was actually just down the street on Granville. Several years later, Vij’s moved to its current location at 3106 Cambie Street. What separates Vij’s from other Indian restaurants like Agra Tandoori is its fine dining approach to the cuisine. The menu elevates traditional Indian fare to another level. Or, at least that’s the objective.
Vij’s celebrated its 25th anniversary last month with a special tasting menu. At $65 per person, the tasting menu offered throwbacks to popular dishes from the restaurant’s history. Curiously, I’ve never dined at Vij’s until now, so this tasting menu was a perfect opportunity to see (and taste) what I’ve been missing.
Four-Course Tasting Menu
The Vij’s 25th anniversary tasting menu consisted of four courses. We generally had two or three options per course, so we ordered a bit of everything to share.
Snacks – Papri and Vegetable Pakora
Dark Army cocktail (c. 2005) – Lemon Hart Demerara Rum, Mango, Lemon, Ginger and Garam Masala
Dinner started with some complimentary “snacks,” as well as a classic cocktail (included in the tasting menu price). The pakora were more “fried” that I’ve had at other places, and the slightly smaller size made for a bit more of a crispier, denser bite.
Mogo Fries with Date Tamarind Chutney ($9 + $3)
As we weren’t sure how spicy the dishes would be, we got some mogo fries and chutney for the five-year-old. The good news is that because the fries were a little slimmer cut (not “steak fries” style like most places), the cassava wasn’t as fibrous as it normally is. The bad news is that the fries did have some spice sprinkled on top, so there was a bit of heat that didn’t sit quite as well with the kindergartner.
Curried Chicken Liver Pate on Potato Puri (c. 2000)
To be perfectly honest, I’m a huge sucker for just about any pate, terrine, or similar kind of smearable seasoned meat. This was thoroughly satisfying, and there was much more pate than could fit on the provided potato puri. I didn’t taste much of the “curried” aspect, though.
Grilled Eggplant, Papaya and Black Chickpea Curry on Potato Puri (c. 1996)
I’m not normally one to order vegetarian dishes, and I’m not normally a fan of eggplant at all. But, this, I liked this. Hearty, satisfying, flavorful and surprisingly light. Delightful.
Lamb Popsicle in Fenugreek Cream Curry (c. 2001)
As far as legendary dishes go, tales of the lamb popsicle at Vij’s have been shared for years. Not too many dishes ever live up to such legendary reputations. The lamb popsicle does. While the lamb itself was fine, I loved the fenugreek cream curry. It’s a fragrant flavor I don’t think I’ve ever tasted before, and I could drink it like a soup. Better yet, I could pour it all over some plain white rice and be in heaven.
Seared Halibut in Spicy Yam and Black Chickpea Curry (c. 1999)
Between the two main courses, I enjoyed this one more. The fish was cooked perfectly, and its more mild flavor contrasted nicely with the heartier chickpea curry. The “spicy yam” aspect was not spicy at all. This was just okay.
Beef Short Rib, Roasted Spicy Okra, Walnuts and Jelly Beans (c. 2009)
Going in, I thought that I was going to like the beef short rib more than the halibut. I think between the unfamiliar texture of the roasted okra (which also wasn’t spicy at all) and the unexpected pop of sweetness from the jelly beans, I might prefer more typical Indian curry dishes.
Naan Bread and Rice
The main courses were accompanied with both naan and rice. We also ordered some extra naan earlier on after the kindergartner voiced her opinion on the mogo fries. The naan at Vij’s has a lot of chew and, despite the visible char, the exterior isn’t as crispy as you might think.
Galub Jamun in Kheer (c. 1996)
Typically, you see these as two separate items on most menus. I appreciate the contrast, as the galub jamun (or “Indian Timbit,” as it is sometimes colloquially called) is very sweet and the kheer is comparatively very light.
The total bill — including a mango lassi, the mogo fries and chutney, an extra order of naan, the two tasting menus, tax and gratuity — came to just under $190. That puts this Vij’s experience well into “special occasion” territory, I’d say. You could do cheaper, but definitely get the lamb popsicle if you decide to give Vij’s a try.
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